Edinburgh: Ancient and sleepy

Nov 24

“Beneath all the beautiful history there is still a modern city with a very dedicated population of people that love the place and want to build something slowly and with great care.”

Today’s guest is a native to my personal favorite city in the world, Edinburgh, Scotland. Situated between the Highlands and the sea, Edinburgh has medieval charm and a pulsing contemporary scene: like few other cities Edinburgh is well-balanced. Its people, as you’ll see below, are good-natured and good-humored.

Bruce Lean, born and raised in Edinburgh, is the head roaster at Fortitude Coffee, where he’s worked since the shop’s early days in 2018. I visited Fortitude’s now-closed original York Place shop one spring day and it was thanks to the barista’s tip there that I discovered Pitt Market. If there’d been time to learn then everything that Bruce shares today, I might have never gotten on a plane home…

Filter: What do you like to do for fun around Edinburgh?
I spend a fair amount of time eating and drinking my way through the city. Most of my weekends will involve a quiet morning coffee in one of the amazing spots we have here in Edinburgh before meeting friends for food (and drinks) to check out any new places, lately we’ve been hitting Chorrito Cantina on Leith Walk for breakfast tacos and micheladas—perfect way to start up a day.

I love walking through the city no matter the weather, it’s beautiful to wander through and it’s so compact that it’s easy to let spontaneity lead the day. You’ll never be too far from whatever you want to find.

The architecture in New Town is striking and cuts some pretty breathtaking lines most days but I usually end up gravitating towards green space—along the water walkways in Leith on a quiet, sunny day, it’s gorgeous and tranquil. Also, most galleries and museums are free in the city, which is a beautiful way of democratising art and allows people to engage with it much more on their own terms and at their own pace, so I love meandering in and out of any exhibitions that may be on in some of the galleries here: Fruitmarket, Stills and Ingleby are some favourites at the moment.

Filter: If your best friend from overseas came to visit, where would you be sure to take them?
Alright, if we’re talking an ideal day with a visiting friend? We’re hitting up Williams & Johnson by The Shore for a morning coffee in the sunshine, followed by a pastry at Hobz on Leith Walk then hop along to Nauticus (one of the best bars in the city, day or night) for a Bloody Mary and we’re set for the day.

We’d then stroll up Easter Road, grab a quick lunch bite at Polentoni which is an amazing wee Italian deli spot. Chase that up with a pour over and some excellent chat in the new Fortitude cafe that’s opening up in that neighbourhood and then take a walk around the base of Arthur’s Seat for some fresh air. Taking that path you end up in Southside, where we can drop by 101 Bakery for a slice of something delicious then head further down through the Meadows, stopping at the small but perfectly formed Tills bookshop to peruse their shelves.

After all this eating the best course of action would be heading to Hey Palu for a digestif. Hey Palu is a wonderful Italian bar near the Meadows and alongside all the classics, I’d recommend their Yuzu margarita as arguably one of the greatest drinks I’ve ever had.

In the evening I’d say we have to hit up Razzo in Leith for the best possible Neapolitan pizza you can get outside of Naples itself, the place is a bargain for the price, the staff are wonderful, and the pies are honestly perfect in my eyes. Then we would dip up to Spry and grab a take away bottle of wine to enjoy up on Calton Hill, where you can catch some views of Edinburgh at golden hour that never grow old—it’s a good place to get some space during a day in the city and never gets too crowded, even on sunny evenings.

Then we’d have to head back into the thick of it for some drinks at Bramble, a tiny blink-and-you’ll-miss-it basement bar on Queen Street smashing out unbelievable cocktails. Finally, we’re heading to the infamous Sneaky Pete’s on Cowgate, another tiny venue, where some talented friends run an impeccable soul, funk and disco night on the last Saturday of every month—SoulJam. Sneaky’s is an institution in Edinburgh and SoulJam is my favourite night to go, the music is immaculate and the crowd is always fantastic.

Filter: What do you like to do to escape the city?
One of the huge benefits of Edinburgh, and Scotland in general, is how quickly you can escape the city and feel lost in the countryside. If anything it’s difficult to remain IN a city for long, if you drive 45 minutes in almost any direction from the city you’re greeted with beautiful coast line, rolling hills, or the looming highlands and all the wilderness that holds.

For simple trips: I love either cycling just outside of the city centre to Portobello Beach for a walk along the beach (and a dip if I’m feeling brave or need to kick a hangover), then grabbing a glass of wine at Smith & Gertrude, my favourite wine bar with the kindest staff going, or I’ll hop on a short train from Waverley down to North Berwick and listen to the waves lapping on the beach with some fish and chips and an ice cream. Simple pleasures.

Filter: What well-known things in Edinburgh are actually worth the hype?
I genuinely do believe Arthur’s Seat is gorgeous. If you catch it on a clear day, hot or cold, you’re going to have an easy enough hike up the hill and be rewarded with a wonderful view of the city, across the sea, and of the hills that Edinburgh’s nestled in amongst.

I’ve lived here my entire life and still enjoy the walk and view no matter how many times I make it, throw in the ever-present distant sound of bagpipes on the wind? Enough to bring a tear to my wee Scottish eyes.

Filter: Where are your favorite quiet corners and hidden gems there?
My friends and I have a Sunday ritual that involves afternoon ice cream sundaes at a fantastic wee gelateria in Stockbridge called Joelato. They make phenomenal gelato and every single week it blows my mind. It’s a tiny little family-run spot with three seats in the window so either time it right or be happy for a stroll, but it’s one of my favourite small spots.

We then head down to The Shore for a pint and to play chess or card games at Malt & Hops, a centuries old beautiful wee ramshackle pub right on the water. They don’t advertise it but most Sunday evenings the pub has local jazz musicians in and it’s the perfect way to end the weekend. It’s a really unassuming spot but the staff are kind, the pints are well poured, the whisky selection is great—it’s the perfect local.

I love that Edinburgh isn’t a big city by any means—it’s ancient and can seem somewhat sleepy which in so many ways it is. The pace of life here is very measured, but it holds so much in such a small space. Beneath all the beautiful history there is still a modern city with a very dedicated population of people that love the place and want to build something slowly and with great care.

The buzz of other larger cities can undeniably be more thrilling but the honesty and care that you can find in Edinburgh is a rare thing, the people that live here have their feet planted pretty firmly on the ground and it’s easy to fall in love with it.

Filter: What's one other coffee shop there that you really admire, and what about them stands out to you?
Lowdown Coffee in the city centre have been consistently brewing up some of the best coffees I’ve ever had. Every visit ends with me feeling inspired and excited to work in this industry—they keep things simple and let phenomenal coffee do the talking in a beautifully considered space where their passion for quality and attention to detail shine.

Catching a table inside on a calm weekday morning where you can really take time to enjoy one of their brews whilst people amble in and out as the city centre wakes up just outside is bliss. Simple things done thoughtfully and passionately always feel best for me.

Filter: How long have you been at Fortitude and in Edinburgh? What do you love about life and work there?
I was born just to the south of the city and I’ve lived around Edinburgh my entire life. I’ve worked in hospitality for 7 years and with Fortitude for almost 5 years now. I’ve been so fortunate to grow alongside the team here as the specialty coffee scene in the city has really flourished and developed. It’s shaped a huge part of my life.

I know it can sound a little tired but truly—the community in this city is incredible: people are generous with their time and knowledge and that’s meant there were open doors for a younger me in 2016 to find a job with people that helped me develop skills and really instilled me with a passion that’s still growing and pushing me forward to this day.

We’re a small town but we’re always striving to leave a lasting impression on people that come through. Spark up a conversation with whoever is making your coffee and you’ll quickly find they lead you on to two, three, four other places nearby—and I can guarantee they’ll all be worth a visit.

Fortitude Coffee

Bruce Lean

Edinburgh: Ancient and sleepy

“Beneath all the beautiful history there is still a modern city with a very dedicated population of people that love the place and want to build something slowly and with great care.”

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