Melbourne: By the ‘godfather of coffee in Australia’ 🇦🇺

Today’s guide to Melbourne is Mark Dundon, who has been at the forefront of his hometown’s coffee scene for the last 25 years. Widely nicknamed “the godfather of coffee in Australia,” on top of running Seven Seeds Coffee Roasters, Mark has business interests in Paramount House Hotel and Paramount Coffee Project, both in Sydney, and Saint Lucia, a coffee farm in Honduras.

On the phone several weeks ago, Mark was kind and soft-spoken; he’s famously nonchalant about his nickname, which places him among the most significant voices in coffee today. Mark’s guide to his hometown favorites is an enjoyable read and enviable itinerary.

Filter: What do you like to do for fun around Melbourne?

Melbourne is lucky to have great diversity; it's multicultural and has an underground bent. So, the arts, food, coffee, and nightlife cultures are rich and diverse. I enjoyed eating at a Georgian restaurant in Northcote and Vietnamese in Footscray the next night. I studied fine art, so I appreciate the art scene in Melbourne; the National Gallery of Victoria is a great gallery, though I’d encourage visiting some smaller galleries in the suburbs, CCP Fitzroy (link), West Side (link) and TCB Gallery (link).

Mark Dundon, co-founder of Seven Seeds and widely regarded ‘the godfather of coffee in Australia.’ Photo courtesy of Seven Seeds

Filter: If a good friend came to visit, where would you be sure to take them?

I would take them out to breakfast—so many cafes! Check out a few galleries, then have lunch at Marion on Gertrude Street. A bike ride through the gardens—Carlton, Fitzroy, Edinburgh Gardens, Merri Creek Trail, and to a few suburbs to check out. The best way to see the city is by bike.

Filter: What do you like to do to escape the city?

Hiking, head out to the Grampians or Wilsons Prom. Surfing Phillip Island or the West Coast (Williamstown Beach and Werribee South Beach)---both have some great beaches and waves. Yarra Valley [Editor’s note: See here for a pin to the general area.] for some wine tasting or the King Valley for a further afield adventure. Skiing, head to Mt. Hotham during winter.

Filter: What touristy things in Melbourne are worth the hype?

The Great Ocean Road from Anglesea down to Warrnambool is a beautiful drive. Healesville Sanctuary is a great venue to check out the native flora and fauna.

Filter: Where are your favorite hidden gems there?

Heide Museum of Modern Art, do yourself a favour. There is some spectacular scenery very close to Melbourne on the Black Spur drive just past the Dandenongs—beautiful rainforest and bushland. Studley Park Boathouse is a great venue on the Yarra, and you can't go past Melbourne's Botanical Gardens.

Filter: What's another coffee shop in Melbourne that you really admire, and what about them stands out to you?

Market Lane—Fleur, Jason, and Jenny have a dedicated approach and vision for their brand.

Filter: What makes Melbourne feel most like home to you?

I love the underground aspects of Melbourne, coming back home I feel it's easy to become immersed in Melbourne culture—it's vibrant and completely approachable.

Filter: Where are you from originally, and how did you end up in the Melbourne coffee scene?

I grew up in Melbourne. My grandparents were farmers in the northeast of Victoria, so I spent a bit of time in the mountains. I studied fine arts and applied science. I realised I wouldn't make my living out of fine art, so I shifted into hospitality, initially with a small bar and then into a cafe, where I began my coffee career 25 years ago.

Filter: In addition to Seven Seeds, you’re involved in several other businesses. Can you share about Paramount House, Paramount Coffee Project, and the Saint Lucia farm in Honduras?

Good question. Paramount House was a side project I did with Russell Beard, a good friend and fellow roaster. We used Paramount to explore other people's approaches to coffee. We invited guests in to run the bar (Coffee Collective, Go Get Em from Los Angeles, Ethiopian producers, as well as a few locals). We were lucky to be able to build Paramount House Hotel with the help of a business partner. It is a small boutique hotel based on a place we would like to stay. It came about from travelling to origin and interpreting what we thought was important in staying somewhere.

Finca Santa Lucia is a small farm in Honduras where I am a partner with the Miersch Family. Erwin asked me 10 years ago to invest in this small lot next to his larger farm. It has been set up with many experimental lots and exciting varietals. I felt I should have an understanding of the deep issues with farming. The farm has been lucky enough to win COE (Cup of Excellence) on a number of occasions.

Filter: If you could move to any place in the world just for the coffee scene, where would you move?

Move means leave Melbourne, damn. I think the origin cities are becoming interesting; many great things are happening in Bogota. Mexico, as well. I haven't been to Denmark and would really love to visit Coffee Collective.

Filter: You're called the 'godfather of coffee in Australia' and famously rather nonchalant about that, but I'm curious: where did that moniker start?

A local newspaper gave me that tag; I think it was more about starting the "specialty roaster" chapter in Melbourne rather than coffee. I began a roasting operation, St. Ali, which was one of the first of its kind in Melbourne.

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Seven Seeds runs 3 cafes and a roastery in Melbourne, Australia.

Seven Seeds Coffee Roasters

Brother Baba Dudan

Traveller Coffee

Roastery and Head Office

Art

National Gallery of Victoria

CCP Fitzroy (link)

West Side (link)

TCB Gallery (link)

Heide Museum of Modern Art