Iceland: The land of fire and ice (and coffee and a cat) 🇮🇸

VikIcelandEurope

Jan 10

“A peaceful country—seriously peaceful, and safe.”

Holly Keyser moved her life to Iceland six years ago and opened Skool Beans, a cafe in a repurposed school bus parked near the famous Black Sand Beach on the south coast of Iceland. Holly’s Filter guide is an insider’s look at what to do in one of the world’s most popular destinations (thanks, Instagram).

On the phone a couple days before the winter solstice, when Iceland gets about 4 hours of daylight, Holly’s energy radiated in a way you’ll feel through the words below—more than any Filter guide so far, this one made me smile.

Filter: How do you spend your free time around Iceland?

Hmmmm, well, since opening Skool Beans I would say I don’t have so much time on my hands, but in saying that, “pre-Skool Beans Holly” would be all about hiking. Iceland, especially outside of the city, is not going to work for someone who isn’t into nature. The south of Iceland is a maze of hikes. So many are hidden from the tourists trails and you can find easy hikes, long hikes, and everything in between.

Filter: Are there any specific hikes you recommend?

I mean, there is the obvious Landmannalaugur to Thórsmörk (Þórsmörk) trail. It's a multiday hike that is only a summer season hike. Five days should do it for an average hiker, six for some that want to take it a little slower. This is a really nice website for that area.

If you want the next hidden area to be discovered, it's definitely Thakgil (Þakgil) and the website of choice for this area is here. It's so pretty and never busy. The drive to it is a rocky road but there is an opening with the cutest campsite at the end where you can snuggle around a log-burning stove inside of a cave lit with candles at night. A truly hidden gem worth a visit.

Filter: What are your favorite places when friends or family visit?

When my friends and family visit we try and get onto the glaciers (really important to go with a guide or someone who really knows the ice), or for those who don’t like a hike, the ice caves are a must. If there is a volcano erupting, that’s a non-negotiable, we’re going! Haha

Little hidden cafes are nice to visit but my favorite thing to do is walk up the mountain Reynisfjall which is a couple of minutes walk from my house, there is a hidden viewpoint at the top that only locals know exactly where it is. You can see the village of Vik, the glacier and the ocean all at once. In the summer, you can see whales if you’re lucky, puffins fly all around you, and it’s the perfect spot for a sneaky sip of moonshine that my friend in the village makes! Haha!

Filter: Could you pretty please share where that hidden viewpoint is…?

Hahaha NEVEEEEEEER! I would be pushed over the edge by my neighbours if I shared that info! Mainly because it's beautiful from any spot on top of Reynisfjall but also because I don't want to encourage people to find a hidden overhanging ledge with nothing below but a long way down into crashing waves!!! Let's choose life on that one eh!

Filter: What are your go-to places to eat and drink?

A seasonal spot called the Dome Cafe which is an actual house with a crazy dome conservatory, a couple of cats, a couple of dogs, and a whole load of plants. Food and drinks are limited but the experience is really nice and the home owners are lovely.

Cafe Freya is located inside of the Skógar Museum and although the setting isn't the most inviting, the owner makes EVERYTHING edible from scratch. Her cakes are insane and I need to wear my "eating trousers" each time I go there to make sure my skinny jeans aren't the pain preventing the pleasure!

There is also a great fish and chip van that's not too far from Skógafoss.

Want to go across the pond? Get the ferry to the Westman Islands (Vestmannaeyjar) and find Cafe Gott for a great meal, nice environment, and some of their home-smoked cheese! It's an amazing island that you can walk around in a few hours and you can still hike up to the top of the volcano that erupted in 1973 and find hot spots hot enough to toast marshmallows!

Filter: What do you like to do to escape the city?

Living remotely, the city IS my escape. Oooommmmmmcat it’s so nice to go into a store and not bump into half the village. In this village you know the staff at the store, the bank, the local shops, and basically everyone that lives and works here. Sometimes I just want to be totally anonymous and not speak to anyone when I pop in and out of stores. BUT, if I don’t want to go to the city then the Landmannalaugar rainbows mountains are spectacular if you love hiking. There and Þakgil hiking trails too.

Finish the hikes and head to the local brewery, Smidjan, to reward yourself for the effort!

Filter: What touristy things around Iceland are worth the hype?

YES! As long as you visit these places with respect for the country you’re in and the nature you’re around.

Glaciers, get on them! Take the longer hikes with smaller companies that take smaller groups. Sure you pay a little more but you get way more for your money.

Lava show, a really nice show to see and woah man, it gets hot when they pour the lava into the room.

A hand-knitted lopapeysa (sweater), This is one of the warmest things you’ll wear. You’ll notice in the coldest months, it’s all the locals wear. As a child, if my grandma knitted me a sweater remotely similar to these I would have been mortified… Now I am all about them and the more crazy patterns, the better! My mother-in-law knits mine for me and we migrated from traditional, to 70s style, and we are now in the crazy cat lady era! Yes, I wear giant knitted sweaters with orange cats on! I know you’re jealous!

Filter: Where are your favorite walks there?

Ooooooooh, there is a little walk close to Skool Beans. You take the track past the bus along the base of the mountain line until you get to the waterfall and stream, take your shoes off and tippy-toe through the stream to the other side. Boot up and continue on along the base of the mountain line and you’ll find a fairytale land. Prime real estate for the local elves and the prettiest spot in the summer. You are unlikely to see another soul… Maybe an elf or two though!

Filter: What's another coffee shop around there that you really admire, and what about them stands out to you?

Pallet Kaffi in Hafnarfjörður. It’s the first specialty coffee house from the airport in a small boat town. The two owners, David and Palma, have transformed a generic old office into the cosiest, kookiest coffeeshop. They were the first specialty coffee shop in Iceland and they make everything edible from scratch. Not to mention they are amazing guys. If you read this and visit them, please say Skool Beans says hi!

Filter: What makes Iceland feel most like home to you?

I’ve lived here for 6.5 years now. I have a business, home, partner, and cat so I guess that makes this my home! I do miss the seasons though and the weather is not for the fainthearted. The culture is fairly closed off and the Christmas traditions are terrifying. I miss propper cheese and fresh fruits and veggies because we get limited imported goods in the village I live in. I hate the darkness, I hate even more the 24-hour daylight…… But every time I go away, I come back and feel a huge sense of relief to be back!

There is no pettiness here. Small annoyances don’t matter. I mean, I can’t remember the last time I locked my car here and a traffic jam might last all of about 5 minutes here. I’m surprised if I see more than three cars on the roads and I almost always get a car parking space next to the entrance of the store! And the water here….. YUUUUUUUUM! Fuuuull on minerals and pure, untreated spring water! When an Icelander opens up to you, they are a friend for life. The air is clean and the temper calm. It’s a peaceful country—seriously peaceful, and safe, and in this current climate, it’s a dreamland and I am thankful each time I read the news.

Filter: Where are you from originally, and how did you end up living in Iceland and opening Skool Beans?

Okay, I will keep this short and sweet for a lot of information!

- Born in England, U.K

Studied fashion and marketing at University
Joined the police and left after 10 years to do a running challenge around the world to raise money for the air ambulance!
Landed in Australia, stayed there and working in marketing and interior design
Wanted to move closer to home and took a trip to Iceland
Became a glacier guide for a year
Bought a bus, and spent two years renovating it on days off
Went from ice to fire and then worked as a presenter at the lava show
2020, opened Skool Beans in the midst of a global pandemic!

Ya know, the standard story! Hahahaha!

Filter: What inspired you to start Skool Beans?

Well, when I first arrived in Australia the only places that would employ me were coffee shops. Well-paid businesses don’t consider backpacker visas as people to invest in so that was my first experience behind the machine!

I had no idea what I was doing and was quickly sent on a course after serving some of the worst, burnt, coffee with foam that was perfect for bubble baths! I quickly learnt that I had a lot to learn! A LOT!

I was 30 years old on a barista course with 18- and 19-year-olds that all had experience. While they were into the latte art, I fell in love with the science of it all—the origin and the difference between beans, altitudes, roast methods, and how small tweaks on a grinder can change the entire experience. I was super interested and it paid off when customers would tell me how much they loved their drink.

I went from arresting bad guys and saving lives and feeling great to serving coffee and feeling just as great, AND I GOT PAID MORE!!!! What a win!

Still, I got caught up in a different career and took a 9-year gap!

Moving to Iceland was a shock for so many reasons but a massive shock was the lack of coffee scene here, especially back then! So I figured, stop moaning and start doing… So I did!

Skool Beans is not just about the coffee though, despite being called the best coffee in Iceland by many people. It’s also about the experience as a whole. I always say, “You can get the best drink in the world, but if it’s served with the worst attitude, that’s all you’ll be remembered for.” I ingrain this into the staff and they know this from the point of applying. Several staff have been to other cafes and come back telling me that what we do is really great and they understand why I have this as a priority. It’s also about creating a team that connects well. Customers can feel tension. We are like a weird, multicultural family here. Created to have fun, work hard, and engage with the customers and each other. I am so proud of them.

Our customers become friends and the staff become family. The great coffee is just a bonus!

Filter: If you could move to any place in the world just for the coffee scene, where would you move, and what shop would be the biggest reason?

Oooooooooooh, I like this question! I visited Taiwan a few years ago and it was clear that the speciality coffee scene was about to pop. It was a blend of taking all the available information from already established specialty coffee brew methods from around the world but adding their own twist on it. It was awesome and I would love to see how it is now. I also looooved Taiwan. It’s a mix of grunge, Japanese efficiency, and tropical beach vibes in the south. All on a tiny island with a convenient high-speed rail! Don’t think about it, just go there while it’s still the Taiwan we know and love.

Filter: What have I not asked that you'd love to tell about?

Uuuuuummmm, about that crazy cat sweater... It’s not for no reason! Hahahaha!

When I first opened Skool Beans, my cat, Jeffrey, followed me to work. He is a free-spirited, dragon-slaying, obnoxious, loveless cat that everyone loves. He has quite the fan club and now has his own Instagram—@sirjeffarious after his full name, Sir Jeffarious, Edwardious The First of Vik! He has three legs, he is crossed eyed, and I love him to the moon and back.

I roast in REALLY small batches. Like, 750 grams!!! It takes hoooooooours so in high season I have a trusted roaster that I use but it’s still the roast level, profile, and bean that I roast myself.

Finally, I love cheese…. Please, if you’re reading this, PLEEEEEEEASE, bring me some extra strong cheddar cheese! I’M BEGGING YOUUUUU! Free coffee in return and quite possibly happy tears!

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