Copenhagen by bicycle

Nov 20

Klaus from Coffee Collective takes us to Denmark's capital for the first ever Filter

On a cold, grey morning several winters ago in Denmark I walked into Coffee Collective’s Bernikow cafe for a warm drink and shelter. People connected with each other in a hum which filled that small space. Candlelight danced on the walls. I didn’t know it then, but that day Coffee Collective introduced me to the European craft coffee scene.

Founded in 2007, Coffee Collective has grown into one of the foremost craft coffee shops on the globe. With 8 locations and a bakery in Copenhagen, Coffee Collective’s footprint extends through distribution to independent coffee shops around the world, and its respectful relationships with coffee farmers has earned it a B Corp certification.

So I’m personally very excited to feature today’s guest, one of the Coffee Collective co-founders, Klaus Thomsen. Klaus describes the Copenhagen of small restaurants and large parks, of flatlands that meet the water, of Copenhagen by bicycle. Hearing Klaus talk about Copenhagen makes me wish I was riding my bicycle through the city center on the way to a pour over and cardamom bun at Coffee Collective.

Filter: What do you like to do for fun around Copenhagen?
Copenhagen really has a lot to offer for a relatively small capital. I love to explore the city on bike, and even after living here for over 20 years I still find parts I haven’t been to yet. When I have time off, I like to seek out one of the many good bakeries in town and get a pastry or a bun and cheese—”bolle med ost,” or in short “BMO,” is a real thing here and a true Copenhagener breakfast.

Right now there’s a square in the northwest part of town called Skjolds Plads with a lot of new exciting places opening that I really want to visit more. There’s a great bakery called Bageriet B, a lunch spot called Et Cetera, and a restaurant named Oberra. It’s a great example of how the metro in Copenhagen has opened up a bunch of new hot areas in town that weren't on anyone’s map before.

So, as you can tell, for me, the fun of Copenhagen is biking around town, checking out places, enjoying that it’s a small (and low) city where you bike or even walk most places. There’s nature, parks, water, and low buildings all around, making it a joy to explore.

I appreciate the size of the city more and more, especially after having lived in bigger cities. The bike traffic infrastructure and culture is one of my favorite things about the city. But tourists, please, spend 10 minutes reading about the bike traffic rules and pay attention when you ride. Remember, this is how Copenhageners commute, so it’s real traffic on the bike lanes.

Besides that I think Copenhagen is blessed with so many interesting and world-class restaurants, bakeries, wine bars and coffee shops. It would be a pity not to appreciate that and make good use of it.

Filter: Okay, what are some of these world-class places to eat and drink? What does your ideal food day look like?
First we would have breakfast at Studio x Kitchen—their folded eggs are amazing. In that area we could see some of the old town of Copenhagen, maybe visit Rosenborg Castle which is inside a park close by, and get a sense of the history of the city. There’s a lot of nice small streets downtown and cool shops to explore. We could grab a coffee at our Bernikow coffee shop and check out the most touristy part around Kongens Nytorv and Strøget, just to cross that off the list.

Lunch would be at Schønnemann – a traditional Danish restauarant with the best Smørrebrød (open-faced sandwich) and super cosy atmosphere. After that we’d ride bikes out to Nørrebro, have an afternoon coffee at Jægersborggade, and go shopping in all the small independent shops there. If weather is good it’s nice to chill in the Nørrebro Park or Assistens Cemetery.

If we spent to much time there, we’d have dinner at Silberbaurs Bistro, but otherwise we would go for an afternoon glass of wine at the wine bar Ved Stranden 10. Then maybe buy a bottle and borrow some glasses there as we hop on to a Canal Tour. Yes, it’s touristy, but I love it. You get to see Copenhagen from the waterfront and sail through Christianshavns Canal and around the parliament building. Dinner options are plentiful in this city with everything from Michelin star restaurants like Kadeau and Alouette, but could also be we go for something a bit more casual like Gaarden og Gaden.

Filter: Where are your favorite quiet corners and hidden gems there?
Quiet corner is probably Assistens Kirkegård, an old cemetery in Nørrebro that’s now half cemetery and half park. It’s a lovely quiet spot in the middle of bustling Nørrebro. A similar hidden gem is the J.C. Jacobsens Have in the Carlsberg City. It’s a garden that the founder of Carlsberg had planted with lots of different botanical varieties and until a few years ago it wasn’t open to the public. Now it is, and it’s a real hidden gem.

Copenhagen has SO many good places to eat. A favorite of mine, which isn’t really obscure but just superbly good, is Silberbaurs Bistro. They have one of the best wine cellars in Copenhagen and the food is spectacular.

But a little tip is also to stop at one of the many hot dog stands around town. Johns Hot Dog Deli at the central station is great, DØP (the organic hotdog stand) is good, and Harry’s Place is super old-school. Get a hotdog, a Flæskestegssandwich (pork roast) or a Bøfsandwich (a sort of burger with gravy) to try something real Danish. And of course get Smørrebrød somewhere—I mentioned Schønnemann, but Selma is another great spot to try it.

Filter: What things in Copenhagen are actually worth the hype?
I’m a sucker for a bunch of the touristy things actually. Tivoli is pretty awesome. It’s not like your regular amusement park but is a 180-year-old park built on the old trenches that protected Copenhagen from attacks. It is beautiful in the evening and is definitely worth a day, especially if you have kids. The Round Tower is also fun I think and I like the tower of Christiansborg Slot which is the parliament building.

Filter: What do you like to do to escape the city?
Personally I go just out of town to Hareskoven quite a lot. It’s a quick bike ride out of the city, and there’s some beautiful walks or runs to be had there. If I feel in the mood for art I’ll go up to Louisiana Modern Art Museum. That’s a day trip, but always worth the time. It’s one of the most beautiful places and nature and buildings are intertwined as you move through the exhibitions. Arken is another modern art museum, not quite as nice as Louisiana, but a bit closer, and Copenhagen Contemporary on Refshaleøen is also a great choice if there’s a good exhibition on.

Filter: What's one other coffee shop there that you really admire in Copenhagen?
It seems unfair to have to pick just one—even when it’s not counting our own—as there’s so many great places in town. Hard pressed, I’d probably say Darcy’s as they have a rotating selection of international roasters on as well as a really lovely breakfast menu. They have more food items than coffee shops and I love going there for a nice breakfast or simple lunch and to taste some new coffees. And I hope people would spend the time to bike around town trying a bunch of different coffee shops here. I can literally bike between all our places and have a coffee before it’s noon.
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As Klaus said, Copenhagen has a lot to offer for being a relatively small city. I love this look at Copenhagen, both its vibrant food and beverage scene and the many activities to do outdoors both in the city and a short bicycle ride away.

Coffee Collective

Klaus Thomsen

Copenhagen by bicycle

Klaus from Coffee Collective takes us to Denmark's capital for the first ever Filter

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